Lagerfeld Sketches, including designs for Liz Taylor, go on auction

Tiziani beaded coral gown and long, hand-feathered cape with matching original sketch.

His words may offend, but his fashions rarely have. Karl Lagerfeld is a fashion icon.  As head designer and creative director for both Chanel and Fendi, and eventually his own premier label, Lagerfeld’s creations are a staple in the wardrobes of wealthy trendsetters the world over.  Recessionistas have also gotten a touch of Lagerfeld style via his bridge collections for Macy’s and Net-a-Porter.  Now a  new collection of sketches, about to go on auction, illustrate how instrumental Karl Lagerfeld was in transitioning couture to the mainstream in the 1960s. In just a few days, on Jan. 11, 2014 in West Palm Beach a 50 year old archive of Lagerfeld sketches will be auctioned.

Elizabeth Taylor Burton in a Tiziani Black Velvet ‘Scorpio’ Evening Cape which Lagerfeld probably designed for her. (images via People Magazine.) 

It was Lagerfeld who, nearly half a century ago, helped launch the designer ready-to-wear concept when he was  an aspiring designer with couturier Tiziani. In many ways he was a forerunner of budget fashion collections by bridging fashion collections from high priced couture to lower priced ready-to wear.

“This 1960s archive, which was maintained by the founder of Tiziani, Evan ‘Buddy’ Richards (1924-1994), passed down through consecutive estates and is absolutely unique,” notes auctioneer Rico Baca of Palm Beach Modern Auctions, the company conducting the sale. “It contains Lagerfeld sketchbooks – some showing entire ready-to-wear lines for a season – hundreds of individual sketches by Lagerfeld and other Tiziani designers, hundreds of photos of couture shows, and several signed photos and personal notes from Elizabeth Taylor to Tiziani.”  A stunning  Tiziani coral gown with feathered cape,  matched to the original pre-production sketch, is one of the highlights of the auction sale. The sale also includes four other pieces of Tiziani couture – three dresses and a beaded top – plus four Mary McFadden couture garments and a mod-styleKiki Hart pantsuit.

Tiziani beaded coral gown and long, hand-feathered cape with matching original sketch. From the Jan. 11, 2014 Tiziani: Lagerfeld + Liz Auction. Palm Beach Modern Auctions image.

I remember seeing some of the Tiziani garments Lagerfeld designed for Elizabeth Taylor in the Christie’s exhibit of fashions and jewerly from her estate.  Elizabeth Taylor’s Tiziani Black Velvet ‘Scorpio’ Evening Cape was in the Christie’s exhibit of items from her estate.   The Tiziani label was a particular favorite of Elizabeth Taylor’s, and during the years that Lagerfeld designed for Tiziani Roma.  Ms. Taylor chose Tiziani to design her wardrobe for several major films; some of the auction drawings are clearly marked for “Elizabeth Taylor Burton.”

The Tiziani archive documents how couture made the leap to mainstream retail. “Evan Richards and his brilliant designer Karl Lagerfeld were right at the forefront,” said Rico Baca. “Richards had grown weary of his couture designs being purchased, taken apart and copied line for line by New York department stores. Eventually he thought, ‘Why shouldn’t we be the ones selling our designs as ready-to-wear?’ That was the beginning of it all.”  Today most designers are in the business of selling their designers as ready-to-wear and event budget collections.

To learn more about the Tiziani -Lagerfeld archive, check out the sketches online in the auction catalog.  Enjoying these fashions by viewing them online is free. Not everyone can afford to dress like Elizabeth Taylor Burton did  but it’s enjoyable to take a step into her fashion world via this collection.